Besides the holiday cheer winter can also mean harsh weather conditions that can cause issues for homeowners with hardwood flooring. It’s crucial to take every step necessary to make sure the floors stay in a good shape all year long.

 

In the winter, water melting from the snow and rock salt can pose a threat to your hardwood floors, as it can scratch and warp the floorboards. To help avoid the issue, use mats at the entranceways and use towels to dry off any spills and puddles.  Water that is left unattended might cause permanent damage that later required refinishing or even replacement. Warping caused by water damage can also dull the varnish and find it’s way to the wood. Dried salt leaves

 

Wood flooring loses some of its moisture during the winter, when homes are heated the air is dry. Relative humidity levels for the floors should be 35-55%. If it’s lower than recommended, the boards start to shrink creating thin gaps. Luckily, this change is only temporary, after the humidity level rise again the gaps will close up. Prevent the dryness problem by using a humidifier during the wintertime and keeping the temperatures stable.

Choosing the type of hardwood flooring which will be perfect for your home can seem straightforward yet it’s an important decision any homeowner will have to make when committing to any and every renovation they plan.  Many of our customers wonder if prefinished or unfinished wood is a better fit for their home project, but honestly both have their advantages!

 

Advantages of Prefinished Flooring

Time

 

Prefinished flooring is almost ready for your room to be installed by our professional staff. It is pre-sanded, stained and coated with varnish done right at the factory. The installation is the only thing that the homeowner needs to think about. Whereas, the unfinished hardwood flooring comes raw, so it does need to be finished on site after the installation is done. There is no denying that prefinished flooring is a much faster process that doesn’t involve any sanding or coating. Once prefinished flooring is installed, furniture can be moved back in its place almost immediately, and the floor is ready to be walked over and enjoyed by you and your family in almost no time. On the flip side unfinished hardwood floors do need to be sanded, stained and coated, which can take a bit more time but with other advantages you will need to take into consideration before making your final choice. With all of this in mind, planning ahead is crucial!

 

Less Mess /No Smell

 

Prefinished flooring is almost dustless and there are no added chemical smells brought into your home during installation. The material has already been treated in the factory and once the stain is sealed at the factory, ventilation is not an important aspect needed to consider for the installation process. Before the need for staining and sealing, sanding unfinished floors does create dust even though there are vacuums hooked to the machines.

 

Cost

 

Prefinished hardwood flooring labor cost is cheaper than installing/refinishing unfinished wood. Although prefinished flooring material may cost more than unfinished, the labor costs are reduced.

 

Advantages of Unfinished Flooring

Appearance/ Options

 

Unfinished flooring happens to have more grain patterns, even though prefinished flooring is usually real wood.  Prefinished wood comes with a protective surface layer that makes it look less like the real thing. The beauty of unfinished wood is that it can be personalized to your preference. Our qualified professional craftsman rather than the factory will create unusual textures on different types of wood to your liking. In addition, the stains can be mixed (must be from the same manufacturer), varnished with oil-based or water-based finish and styled with sheen level: matte, satin, semi-gloss or glossy.  All of this is done by hand to make the floor exactly as you always wished for.

 

Matching Made Easy

 

Many of our customers decide to get their floors done for each room separately at different times. This is usually preferred either to have a space to store the furniture (during refinishing) or a particular material is more cost-effective at a given time of the year. The beauty of unfinished hardwood is that it can be added to your room to be matched with existing hardwood flooring at any time; even if a previously purchased option is no longer available.

 

Cleaning

 

The grooves of a prefinished floor create gaps that trap dirt easily, which makes it harder to clean. Rather than cleaning a finished onsite floor which is mostly flat.

 

Repairs/Refinishing

 

A finished hardwood onsite can be refinished to remove any dents or scratches, while prefinished damaged planks would need to be replaced by the factory making it hard to match on site. Therefore, it’s highly recommended to store the extra boxes of flooring, since the prefinished products are often custom ordered and can get discontinued. The daily use of flooring will result in normal wear and tear and also with anything; scratches. Un-finished wood can be fixed/restored onsite multiple times before the damaged material is actually seen as a problem. Prefinished floors can only be sanded once or twice over the span of their lifetime due to thicker polyurethane layers applied by the factory. This results in deep sanding, especially to match stain from the edges as well as doubled labor costs.

 

Our company works with both types of flooring, and it usually boils down to you to decide which option suits your situation best during renovation. We’re always here to help with that decision!

Ready to give the floor a refreshing look? Seek no further, the screen and re-coat process can revitalize worn or dull hardwood floor finishes. In addition, it provides an option of changing level of the finish.

 

Ever wondered how it’s done? This process is sometimes referred to as “buff and re-coat” since a buffer is used instead of a drum sander machine.  The crew-members use a buffer pad, to remove scuffs made on the finishing coat, by moving it slowly in a back and forth pattern across the surface. Once the first coat is screened, then it’s vacuumed thoroughly to smooth the surface. It’s crucial for the floor to be completely smooth and free of any contaminant, so the new coat of water-based or oil-based polyurethane can adhere to the old one that was just screened.

 

As mentioned in the previous blog, polyurethane are finishes that are meant to protect floors from everyday living.  Just because it’s meant to protect the hardwood floor, doesn’t mean it will last lifetime. Over time, the finish gets thinner and more scratches or dents become noticeable, especially when it’s deep enough to expose bare wood.  But before it gets to this damaging point (which often requires sanding), it’s recommended to screen and recoat the floor once it turns dull or light scratches start to show.  This will postpone a need to refinish (sand) the floors, which generates a higher cost for both labor and material as compared to screen and re-coat.

 

Beyond choosing your wood species, stain, and finish, there's another decision that affects durability, cost, and which floors are even possible in your home: how the flooring is physically installed. Here are the four main installation methods used in hardwood, engineered, and laminate flooring today.

🔨Nail-Down
The traditional method for solid hardwood over a wood subfloor (plywood or OSB). After the flooring acclimates, boards are blind-nailed at a 45° angle through the tongue into the subfloor below — invisible once installed. A damaged board can later be removed and replaced individually without disturbing the rest of the floor. This is still the preferred method for solid hardwood whenever the subfloor allows it.
Solid hardwood Wood subfloor required Most durable
📎Staple-Down
Similar in concept to nail-down, but using pneumatic staples instead of cleats. Staples have slightly different holding characteristics than nails — the correct staple length and crown width matter for a tight, squeak-free installation. We choose between nail and staple based on the specific flooring product's tongue profile and manufacturer specifications.
Solid hardwood Wood subfloor required Fast installation
🪣Glue-Down (Full Spread)
Adhesive is spread across the entire subfloor before the flooring is set into it. This is the standard method for engineered wood over concrete, and is required for most wide plank installations (4"+) regardless of species, since wider boards need more holding strength across their surface to stay stable. Full-spread glue typically adds $1.00/sq ft to labor compared to nail-down.
Engineered wood Over concrete Wide plank
🧩Floating Floor
Planks click together (or are glued at the seams only) and "float" over a foam underlayment — not attached to the subfloor at all. This is common for engineered wood and laminate, especially in basements or over concrete where moisture is a concern, since the floating layer adds a buffer against minor subfloor movement. It's also typically the fastest method to install.
Engineered wood Laminate Basements
Which method is right for your project? It depends on your flooring type, subfloor material, and where in the home you're installing. Solid hardwood over a wood subfloor almost always means nail-down or staple-down. Engineered wood over concrete typically means glue-down or floating. We assess your subfloor and product during the on-site evaluation and recommend the method that gives the most stable, long-lasting result — not just the fastest one.

Related Reading

If you're considering engineered wood specifically — which uses glue-down or floating installation most often — see our Engineered Wood Flooring service page for where it makes sense and typical pricing. For solid hardwood installation costs across nail-down and staple-down methods, see our Installation Cost Guide.

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When it comes to finishing products for hardwood floors we recommend either 2 coats of oil based polyurethane or 3 coats of water based floor finish.  The question then arises: “Which one is better?”. Oil Based vs. Water Based Floor Finish? Both oil based and water based polyurethanes are equally durable when it comes to protecting hardwood floors from everyday wear and tear.  The finish gives the floor its color and luster so this becomes a personal preference.

COLOR:

The appearance is the biggest difference between oil and water based polyurethane. Oil based polyurethane has an amber appearance, a medium to dark brownish-yellow color which will darken over time.  The water based polyurethane has a lighter appearance and remains clear.

SMELL:

Another major factor to consider when choosing the surface finish is the smell. Oil based polyurethane gives off powerful fumes that should not be inhaled. For this reason we recommend that the costumer along with pets stay out of the house while refinishing the floors. Water based polyurethane has less of an offensive odor by comparison and it’s safer for customers and pets when applying the finishing coats indoors.

DRYING TIME:

The curing time for oil based polyurethane takes 24-48 hours before it would be safe to walk on with socks on.  Whereas the water based polyurethane is safe to walk on with socks on after 4 hours.  However, we recommend waiting 3-4 days before moving furniture back on to the floor to avoid any scratches.  The same time frame applies when it comes to allowing pets to walk on the surface

THICKNESS AND HARDNESS:

Another quite important factor is the thickness and hardness of each surface finish. The oil based polyurethane is thicker and softer, whereas the water based product is thinner but harder.  We suggest applying 2 coats of oil based polyurethane because it’s more vulnerable to incur dents, and 3 coats of water based because it’s more likely to scratch.

COST:

Our company uses top grade products for commercial water based polyurethane BONA Traffic HD which can be twice as expensive as the oil. Therefore, it’s usually a $1 more per square foot and is mostly used when a natural look is required or for grey or white washed floors.  The oil base polyurethane our company uses is Masterline and Bona Woodline.

SUMMARY:

As stated before, choosing the floor finish is a personal preference and the finished look can be a deal breaker. The other factors are just as important when deciding on the finish. Our company always achieves excellent results whether coating with oil based or water based polyurethane.

 

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